A Day on Tonle Sap: An Afternoon at Cambodia’s Floating Villages Near Siem Reap

Travel often means ticking off famous sites, but for me the most memorable moments come from quieter detours. My visit to Tonle Sap Lake, just a short drive from Siem Reap, was one of those moments. In the floating villages, I witnessed a way of life shaped by nature’s rhythms, where homes rise and fall with the waters, and daily life moves at a human pace. It was a reminder that travel isn’t just about places, but about connection.

This isn’t the Cambodia you see on postcards. It’s a living, breathing water world where houses stand on stilts, kids paddle to school in wooden canoes, and whole communities drift with the lake’s gentle rhythm.

A Lake Like No Other

Tonle Sap isn't just Southeast Asia's largest freshwater lake, it's a natural wonder that has sustained life here for over a thousand years. The lake performs an incredible annual trick: during dry season it covers about 2,500 square kilometers, but when monsoons arrive, it expands to nearly 16,000 square kilometers. The Tonle Sap River reverses its flow twice a year, creating the nutrient-rich floods that have made this region Cambodia's rice bowl for centuries.

The Khmer Empire understood this rhythm well and Angkor's temples were built here partly because Tonle Sap could feed a massive population. Today's floating villages carry on traditions passed down through generations, with families who've adapted their entire way of life to rise and fall with the waters.

Choosing the Right Village to Visit:

If you ask around town, you’ll hear mixed reviews about the different villages.

• Kampong Phluk: A favourite for many travellers, Kampong Phluk is known for its dramatic stilt houses that rise 6 to 10 meters during the dry season. The village offers a peaceful atmosphere, beautiful sunsets, and a chance to see how locals adapt to the changing lake levels.

• Chong Khneas: The largest and most tourist-friendly floating village near Siem Reap, Chong Khneas has shops, schools, and a bustling market. It’s lively but can feel more commercialised than other villages.

• Kompong Khleang: A quieter and less visited village, Kompong Khleang is famous for its authentic atmosphere and traditional wooden houses on stilts. It’s ideal if you want a more immersive, less touristy experience.

• Prek Toal: Part of the Tonle Sap Biosphere Reserve, Prek Toal is not just a floating village but also a haven for birdwatchers and nature lovers. It offers boat tours focused on the region’s rich biodiversity alongside village visits.
  

My Pick – Kampong Phluk

I chose Kampong Phluk, about 45 minutes by tuk-tuk from Siem Reap. It’s a stilt village that transforms with the seasons, dry land in summer, a floating maze during the rainy months. Plus, there’s the bonus of a beautiful flooded mangrove forest, where you can hop into a tiny wooden boat for a peaceful paddle through the trees.

Afternoon On the Lake:

We arrived at the main boat dock, where long-tail boats wait to ferry us out onto the river. After buying our tickets (about $25 USD per person), we climbed aboard and began the relaxing ride down the river. Heading down the river we watched local kids waved from doorways, fishermen hauled in their nets, and brightly painted houses teetered on tall stilts.

Midway through, we pulled up alongside a floating platform with a small shop, bring small cash (in USD or Cambodian Riel) to support the local business. Drinks on the lake aren’t cheap, but after sweating through the midday heat, an icy cold coconut well worth it.

The Flooded Forest: A Canoe and a Chance to Support Locals

At the village edge, local women offer canoe rides through the mangroves ($5-10 USD extra). This was the highlight. My friendly paddler navigated narrow passages between towering trees with expert grace. The temperature dropped under the canopy, sunlight filtered through moss and trees, and the only sounds were gentle paddle splashes and local birds.

In the deeper forest, she stopped paddling. The silence was profound yet alive with the sounds of water and leaves rustling overhead. It felt like being inside the lake's heart.

Pro tip: Buy your paddler a cold drink afterward. It's a meaningful gesture that supports the community directly.

Essential Tips Before You Go:

• Cash is king: ATMs don’t exist out on the lake. Bring small notes for drinks, snacks, canoe rides, and tips.

• Protect yourself from the sun: Hat, sunscreen, and sunglasses are essential.

• DEET Insect repellent: Mosquitoes love the shaded mangroves, especially near sunset.

• Stay hydrated: Bring your own water, but also budget to buy drinks from the floating cafés to support local businesses.

• Be a thoughtful visitor: Avoid giving sweets or money directly to kids. Instead, support the community through official tours, buying food, or tipping service providers.

• Photography etiquette: Remember to ask permission if you're photographing people up close, and respect private moments.

When to Go

• Wet Season (May-October): Village truly afloat, flooded forest accessible, but hot and humid with afternoon storms.

• Dry Season (November-April): More comfortable weather, but stilt houses tower over dry ground—different but still fascinating.

• Sweet spot: Late October to early December offers the best balance.

More Than Just Tourism

When you choose local tours, buy from village vendors, and tip fairly, you're supporting communities facing real challenges from climate change and economic pressures. Your $25 boat ticket and $10 canoe ride become meaningful income for families with few other opportunities.

My day on Tonle Sap was picture perfect, not in a polished way, but in honest moments that make travel meaningful. Sitting in a wooden canoe, sharing smiles across language barriers, witnessing a way of life so connected to natural rhythms offered an intimate and unforgettable glimpse of Cambodia.

If you're in Siem Reap and want more than temples, give a day to the lake. Bring small cash, show up with curiosity and kindness, and prepare to see Cambodia from a completely different perspective.

Baylee x